Synagogues Remaining as Relics of Jews in Herat

Four synagogues remain as relics of Jews who once lived in Herat, which some Afghans remember.

Four synagogues, a bathhouse, and Jewish homes are located in the “Darb Iraq” area in the bazaar of the old city of Herat. These historical monuments have survived since the Jews left Herat. The four synagogues are named “Youha,” “Golkiya,” “Samuel,” and “Georgia.” Currently, the roof of the Georgia synagogue has collapsed, and only a few walls remain, reducing it to ruins.

The Golkiya synagogue was converted into a mosque after the Jews left Herat, while the Samuel synagogue was converted into a school. Among these synagogues, the Youha synagogue has been damaged by earthquakes that occurred in previous years, and restoration and reconstruction have now begun. This was the largest Jewish synagogue, consisting of a spacious courtyard, a worship chamber, and a ablution room, which have been preserved in their original form. Additionally, a stone inscription in Hebrew is visible at the entrance of this place of worship on the second floor of the synagogue, which now serves as a property document for the Afghan government.

According to the claims of Herat’s cultural officials, the Jews living in Herat transferred their synagogues to the Afghan government upon their departure from Afghanistan and sold their homes, shops, and gardens. Given that the decorations and designs of the Youha synagogue are very beautiful and attractive, and it is currently undergoing reconstruction, cultural officials stated that after restoration, the Youha synagogue will be converted into a cultural and tourist site.

“Mohammad Sadegh Mir,” the head of restoration and reconstruction of Herat’s historical buildings, spoke about the Youha synagogue, saying: “Jews went underground in the Youha synagogue to worship and performed ablution with water at ground level. The ablution chambers for men and women were separate, and Jewish women wore hijab just like Muslim women.”

Herat residents who lived in the same neighborhood as the Jews recalled the past and said that Jews ceased their business activities on Saturdays and devoted themselves to worship, recreation, and rest. According to their claims, Muslims and Jews lived side by side in Herat without dispute for more than two centuries.

“Mohammad Ali,” a 60-year-old man who lives near the Youha synagogue, says his father bought the house of one of the Jews and still lives in it. He tells reporters: “Every time I pass by this synagogue, the coexistence of Muslims and Jews comes to mind. I have good memories of the presence of Jews here, and I can confidently say that they were kind and peaceful people. I played with Jewish children and they were very good people. They went to the synagogue for worship and we Muslims went to the mosque, and there was no difference between us. We lived like brothers next to each other.”

In addition to the synagogues, a bathhouse and a cemetery have also remained as relics of the Jews. This bathhouse is in a state of deterioration. Culturalists had proposed to the previous Afghan government the purchase, reconstruction, and restoration of this building, but the previous government rejected this proposal.

Some informed individuals in the field of culture and history claimed that the Jews living in Herat migrated from Iran to Herat due to pressure to change their religion and pay the jizya tax (a religious tax imposed on followers of other religions in Islam). More than 300 Jewish families migrated to Herat, and the last families left Afghanistan in 1357 (Persian calendar year). The main reason for their migration was war in Afghanistan and a better life in Israel.

Before the Taliban government came to power, some Jews visited Herat to visit the graves of their ancestors and paid money to the cemetery custodian for the repair of the cemetery wall to prevent usurpation of their property.

“Zebulon Simintov” was also the last Jew living in Afghanistan, who was responsible for the only Jewish synagogue in Kabul. After the Taliban government came to power, he left Kabul out of fear of retaliatory attacks by the Taliban. He was born in Herat and after moving to Kabul, converted the upper floor of his house into a synagogue, which many Jews living in Afghanistan visited for worship.

Nearly half a century has passed since war erupted in Afghanistan. After the reign of Mohammad Zahir Shah ended, Jews refrained from traveling to Herat and visiting their homes, synagogues, and cemeteries because they might face danger. However, with the Taliban government coming to power, which exerts greater pressure on religious and ethnic minorities, Jews have become discouraged from traveling to their homeland.

According to the statements of many Afghans and even Iranians, before the coming to power of extremist Islamist governments, all people, regardless of ethnicity or religion, lived brotherly and without any conflict or judgment with each other. However, with the coming to power of Islamic governments, divisions and conflicts between different ethnicities and religious minorities in Iran, Afghanistan, and other neighboring countries with European countries emerged, and that peaceful and brotherly life was replaced by war, hatred, division, conflict, and power-seeking.